Posted March 28th, 2009
by Dan Eitreim
by Dan Eitreim
Terrific photographs can be ruined by distracting shadows.
Unfortunately, shadows are a constant challenge for photographers. Fortunately, there are quite a few easy but effective fixes.
First, what causes the shadow? Well, obviously it is caused by the light hitting your subject and not hitting the background behind them.
So, if you’ve got a problem with shadows falling on the background, one way to remove the shadow is to remove the background. Obviously, if there is nothing for the shadow to fall on, voila! No shadow.
So, the first fix in our shadow removal arsenal is to remove the backdrop – if possible.
When your photo shoot is being done outside, all you have to do is move your model so that there is no backdrop behind them. Pretty simple.
If your photo session is being done indoors, you obviously can’t take down or remove the walls, so move your model into the center of the room. They’ll be posing far enough away from the walls so that the shadows will magically disappear. Usually makes for a more unique and better shot too!
The second way to approach the problem is to position a light to illuminate the background.
If you are using a “studio” lighting setup, once you get your subject lit the way you want them, add an additional light that strikes only the background and not the subject.
Adding the extra light can be more than just a shadow remover. By adding in scrims, cookies and colored gels to modify the light, it becomes a part of the design of the photo. The modifiers will throw colors, patterns and shapes on your backdrop.
Think of light like a ball on a billiards table. It will hit the subject at a certain angle and reflect off at that same angle – like the billiards ball striking the cushion and bouncing off. (This is important to remember when trying to eliminate glare from eyeglasses.)
The shadow on the other hand, is ALWAYS directly in line with the light. So, you can minimize the shadow problem by changing the angle of the lights so that the shadow falls into an area that won’t show in the final photo.
Indoors, with a studio light setup, just move the lights around until you find the optimal angle. Outside, you have to move your model around until the light is coming from the right direction. Reflectors can help too! you can change the angle of light when using an on camera flash by bouncing it off a wall or the ceiling. Just be sure the wall or ceiling are not painted a color that will throw an odd color cast on your model.
The size and strength of the light source – as related to your model – is what will control the harshness and intensity of your shadows.
If you lower the intensity of the light, that will also lower the intensity of the associated shadow. It will still be there, but you may be able to minimize its’ distracting effect.
Moving the light further from the model or reducing the lights’ power are two simple ways to lower the intensity of light hitting your subject.
You can wrap light around a model – and minimize the shadows – by making the light bigger. This is done with reflectors, softboxes and umbrellas.
These modifiers can be thought of as being like a cloud. A cloud that moves between your model and the sun is nothing more than a giant diffuser. It makes the entire cloud a light source (bigger) instead of just the sun (smaller). This wraps the light around your model minimizing shadow intensity. Go outside and check out the difference in shadows when the light is coming from the sun and from a cloud. You’ll notice some astounding differences.
There are entire books written about this subject and this message is by no means an exhaustive solution, but it should give you something to consider.
Happy shooting.
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Getting a full or part time income from your camera is really easy and there’s room for all skill levels.
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Tags: camera, Digital Photography, freelance photography, make money, photo, photo jobs, photo marketing, photo studio, photographer, photographers, Photography, photos, professional photography Posted in Photography
Posted February 19th, 2009
by Dan Eitreim
by Dan Eitreim
Your job as a photographer (whether you’re an amateur or professional) is simple. You have to make your subjects look as good as they’ve EVER looked without your tricks and techniques being obvious. That’s a task easier said than done.
Unless you are a master retoucher or spend countless hours in Photoshop (or both), it’s hard to change too much in a portrait without ruining it. To get seamless retouches, You need to do most of your fixes “in camera”.
This first tip concerns acne and wrinkles.
It won’t take long in your photo career to realize that teens are plagued with acne and adults have wrinkles. They may or may not actually say anything to you about it, but both age groups want to eliminate or at least lessen their respective problems.
Let’s face it, as we get older our wrinkles become more pronounced and actually deeper. Wrinkles are the first photographic signs of our age but they’re a problem that is actually fairly easy to fix.
What defines a wrinkle? It’s the shadows filling in the crevices. As we get older and those crevices get deeper, the shadows become darker and darker. How to get rid of wrinkles and take years off your photographic model?
Lighten the shadow! (There’s a blinding flash of the obvious.)
What creates shadows? It’s light skimming across the face from the sides or the top. The side light is not able to get into the wrinkle crevices and creates a shadow. The deeper the wrinkle, the darker the shadow. This can (and does) add a lot of visual years to our subject.
So, going in reverse, avoid hard side lighting! Pretty simple. By having the light aimed directly into the face, it will penetrate to the bottom of the wrinkles’ crevice and either lighten or totally eliminate the shadow. Obviously giving your model a younger appearance and saving you a lot of time in Photoshop.
Acne? Use the same cure. Acne scars, pimples and other facial blemishes are at least partially defined by the shadows they cast on the face. Again, light skimming the face from the side will cast longer and harder shadows thus making the acne scars more pronounced and pimples appear larger. Shine your light directly into the face and they will be minimized or disappear altogether.
Use a reflector of some sort or even your on camera flash in addition to the sun to fill in the shadows. Your smooth faced teens and wrinkle free adults will thank you.
You now know as much as most professionals! Now it’s time to make some money with YOUR camera! to see how easy this is, follow one of the links to my site…
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Stop working at a job you detest and for a jerk of a “boss”. It is easier than you think to earn a very nice full or part time living in
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Tags: camera, Digital Photography, freelance photography, hobby, home-business, make money, photo, photo jobs, photo marketing, photo studio, photographer, photographers, Photography, photos, professional photography Posted in Photography
Posted January 31st, 2009
by Michael J
by Michael J
What type of pictures do you want from your wedding photographer?
Is photography something that you get emotional about? Do you create pictures in your mind and relive the experience when you see a picture? Are you surrounded by art that reflects YOU? If you aren’t, then don’t really have a need for a photojournalistic style of photographer, because your photos are probably going to end up in a drawing collecting dust. If you’re an art guru and do value and enjoy photographic works, then you should look for a professional that can match your story with vivid photo art and story.
Read through Magazine and Guides to unleash the Art Side of You. Once you do this, you’ll find all kinds of professionals that are just like you!
To learn how the photographer you’re talking with feels about photojournalistic photography, you might show him/her some magazines that you really like. Discuss the black and whites, view the close-ups and come up with a number or percentage of candid pictures that you want to receive in your wedding album. You can also test the photographer’s knowledge by asking some of the following questions: Here are a few Questions to Stump Your Candidate and Really Put them to the Test!
Have the photographer look at your face and ask them how they would get the most beautiful pictures of you. Ask them to consider all of your faults, features, strong and weak spots and tell you how they would get a striking photo!
If your whole family complains about having pictures taken, or if they feel uncomfortable in front of a camera, what ideas do you have to make the photo session less painful for them?
Have you noticed any expressions or mannerisms of mine that you might want to try to capture or avoid?
Each photographer uses his/her own techniques. It is called the photographers eye. Some see moments as they whiz by in documentary-style charm, while others prefer staged settings. Others have both qualities and styles together, which is ideal. The term photojournalism has become overrated. It doesn’t mean anything anymore, except that it is now acceptable for wedding pictures to have an artistic effect.
Tags: Digital Photography, engagement, photographers, Photography, pictures, wedding, Wedding Photography, wedding presents Posted in Wedding Photography
Posted November 20th, 2008
by SFXsource
by SFXsource
There are so many beautiful landscapes. You don’t even have to travel outside of the United States, just visit a local or national park! These tips will help you take wonderful photographs of landscapes. Whether you are a beginning photographer, or a professional, these are simple tips to keep in mind when photographing landscapes.
1. It is important to consider light quality. Determine whether the light is soft or harsh. Are you photographing in the afternoon, or at sunrise or sunset? Is it overcast, and are there clouds? Generally, the best light is in the mornings and evening (before 10 a.m. and after 2 p.m.).
2. Look for interesting lighting. Back-lighting and side-lighting are great for mountains. Side-lighting can be created by turning 90 away from the sun. Back-lighting is very dramatic and creates silhouettes.
3. Think about composition. Symmetry often works with landscapes. Also, simple is beautiful. How do you want to place the trees, lakes, streams, and mountains? What kinds of shapes are in the frame?
4. Try to include bridges, paths, and roads. Use their shapes to draw the viewer in and lead them around the photo. If you photograph them at an angle, you are able to create that effect. Place the start of a road or path in the corner of the photo.
5. Try using infrared film for your landscape photography. Infrared film is more sensitive to infrared light. This means that your photographs will have darks skies and light/ bright leaves and vegetation. It’s awesome!
6. You will want your entire photo to be in focus, so use a large depth of field (small number, large aperture). Also, long exposures increase depth of field.
Try both long and short exposure times, specifically when you have water in your photos (lakes, waterfalls, ocean). So, grab your tripod and have fun with landscape photography.
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SFXsource writes articles on a variety of interesting subjects, hosts a sound effects chere,alog here,
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Tags: art, Cameras, graphic arts, graphics, hobbies, Landscape Photography, landscapes, multimedia, nature, photographers, Photography, photos Posted in Cameras
Posted November 15th, 2008
by SFXsource
by SFXsource
Close-up photography is also known as macro photography. If your subject is small, you are able to photograph the small details by getting closer. Macro lenses are 1:1 (“life size”). This means that the image of your subject is the same size in real life. Listed below are macro photography tips to help you get started.
1. The first thing you will want to do is research the type of equipment you want. Experiment using the following: a macro filter, close-up lens, a telephoto extender, or a bellows attachment. For those of you just beginning, you may just want to invest in a macro filter.
2. In macro photography, it is important to know that the depth of field is different. Choose a high f-stop number such as an F16 or F22 (small aperture). Most of what is in the background will not be in focus.
3. Be careful when focusing your subject, because if you are not, the part you want to be in focus will end up blurry. Except under bright lighting conditions, you will probably use a slow shutter speed.
4. Lighting is another important aspect. Because you will be very close to your subject, there must be sufficient light between your lens and your subject. Ring flashes can be used to avoid this problem.
5. High film speeds will allow you to increase your shutter speed, since you will be using a slow shutter speed. It is recommended to stay at ISO200 or lower.
6. Have fun photographing a number of different subjects. Be aware of the shape and texture. Keep in mind composition as well as colors in the background.
You can experiment with light balance, use a diffuser, or use a tripod. Take your time with macro photography, and always have fun. Flowers and bugs are great subjects.
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SFXsource publishes articles on a wide array of interesting subjects, hosts a sound effects library at
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Tags: art, Cameras, graphic arts, graphics, hobbies, macro, media, multimedia, nature, photographers, Photography, photos Posted in Photography
Posted November 13th, 2008
by Samael Droste
by Samael Droste
It can be a bit daunting to try to make sure your wedding photography is just perfect. This is one task you don’t want to mess up or you may regret it for years to come. While it will take some effort, you will find that it is well worth it to carefully plan this aspect of your wedding.
Step one is deciding exactly what you want out of your wedding photography. You’ll need to know how many photos you want to have taken, who you want in them, and where they’ll be taken.
These questions can help you decide on your venue, in addition to lots of other factors. Just remember to take ambiance, lighting, and space into account if you want to be sure of getting good photos. That’ll help the photographer have everything he or she needs.
Next you’ll want to start the quest to hire a wedding photographer. A few things that can help you to make this decision include their ability, cost and experience. Be sure that you make sure that the photographer is well aware of the date as well.
When booking the venue, look for a place that has plenty of photographic appeal. This isn’t the only thing to think about, but a place that’s easy to photograph in is a good choice. After all, no one wants an ugly backdrop in their wedding pictures.
Once you have information about the wedding venue, it’s time to get it to your photographer. Take a little time to show them where you’ll be married, how large the venue is, and what the overall feel is. Afterward, you can talk more about the pictures you’d like to have taken and scenery to go with them.
Take some time to come up with a written plan for your wedding photography. Make sure that everyone is expecting the same thing, and that you and your photographer both know one another’s plans. That way, when the big day comes, you’ll have no trouble getting your photos taken perfectly.
If you are not sure what specific photographs you want taken at your wedding, take a look at some bridal magazines. Tear out pictures that you love and want done at your wedding. You can also look through the wedding photos of friends and of the photographer for more ideas as well.
Although you pay the photographer to photograph your wedding, it’s not until later when you will pick out the pictures you want. You’ll be able to choose sizes and amounts, and you’ll pay for those pictures separately unless they are included in the package. Remember this when planning your budget.
Your wedding is one of the biggest days of your life. That means it’s worth your while to take it slowly, plan with care, and make sure your big day has the best photography possible.
About the Author:
Dont Trust just anyone with your
wedding photogtaphy, a wedding is one of the most celebrated events in a couple’s life and their family and friends become an integral part of their life. Use trusted experts, like Viva.
Tags: arts, marriage, photographers, Photography, relationships, society, wedding, wedding photographer, Wedding Photography Posted in Photography
Posted November 10th, 2008
by SFXsource
by SFXsource
Though color photography is quite common, black and white photography is often a great choice for exploring your creativity. This article lists quick tips for black and white photography.
1. You can choose from different formats (different film sizes): 35mm (1″ x 1″), medium format- 120 (2″ x 2 “), and large format (4″ x 5″). Usually, beginning photographers will start off on a 35mm SLR (single-len reflex) camera. This camera allows the photographer to view and focus on the subject directly though the lens.
2. There are different film speeds for different situations; film speeds are rated by an ASA (American Standards Association) number. For brightly lit subjects, a slow film such as 32 ASA is used; slow film produces fine grain negatives. Outdoor photographers will typically use a medium film speed such as 125 ASA, and that produces medium grain negatives. A fast film speed, such as 400 ASA is best for indoor use, and produces coarse grain negatives.
3. The aperture is adjusted to control the amount of light entering the lens. F-stop is a measurement of the size of the lens opening. A smaller F-stop number is a bigger opening and allows more light to reach the film. A larger F-stop number decreases the amount of light that reaches the film. The following is a typical F-stop range: 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22.
4. Focal length is a measure of the lens size, measured in mm. For a lens with a longer focal length, the angle of view is narrower. A short focal length has a wider angle of view. The following are lens types and their focal lengths: normal (50mm), wide angle (21-35mm), and telephoto (105-300mm).
5. Shutter speed refers to the length of time the film is exposed to light. A fast shutter speed means the length of exposure time is short. A slow shutter speed means the length of exposure time is long. Shutter speeds: B, T, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500, 1000. Shutter speed time can be better understood if you place a 1 over the number to turn it into a fraction. When you place a 1 over the 2, that means the shutter speed is a second.
6. The B stands for bulb, and the T stands for time. Bulb means that the shutter will stay open for the amount of time you are pressing the button down. Time will keep the shutter open until you press the button again.
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SFXsource writes articles on a variety of interesting subjects, hosts a sound library here,
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Tags: art, Black and White Photography, Cameras, graphic arts, graphics, hobbies, media, multimedia, photographers, Photography, photos Posted in Black and White Photography